You may have noticed I nearly completely screwed up our first adult trip to Scotland in October (read about the trip here). The short version: two weeks before flying over to prepare to meet our group, I fell down a hill in the pasture while taking family photos and fractured my left fibula at my ankle. Oops.
Panic
As I stepped backward into thin air, my only thought was “Scotlaaaaaand!” Sigh. As someone very independent and used to doing most things myself, suddenly needing disabled travel advice was a whole new ballgame.
Don’t Panic, Research
Today, I’m looking on the bright side: I now know how to get around the UK with a busted leg. Fortunately, a previous student trip left us with a severely sprained ankle in the group on day one, so we knew where many of the lifts are located in Edinburgh and Oban, how to avoid some of the stairs and cobbles, and where to get ice. Disabled travel is not for the faint of heart, but it can be done and is 100% worth the trouble.
Once the orthopedist told me I could fly (or rather didn’t say I couldn’t fly, a major sigh of relief), I immediately went into research mode to figure out how to get around. At home, I had painful crutches (they were too tall) and a knee scooter borrowed from a friend. Neither were great options for the cobbles and stairs I knew I would encounter, so I went hunting.
Equip Yourself
After an extensive search of medical supply stores in Springfield came up short in the disabled travel category (it’s like they want you to stay home or something), I headed to Amazon as time was running out. There I encountered the iWalk and a set of folding crutches made for travel – brilliant! I ordered both, but later decided the iWalk was probably not the safest option for all the cobbles of Edinburgh (it has since become my farm chores tool, along with a good walking stick – Jason calls me Gandolf). So the iWalk stayed home.
Initially, I planned only to take my crutches, but didn’t feel good about that choice given the potential for slick cobbles and sore armpits. Then I stumbled upon someone asking about a mobility scooter for disabled travelers in a Facebook Group for Scotland Travel. What!? Genius! A quick search gave me a list of power scooters for rent in Edinburgh – who knew? The company I went with delivered and picked up the scooter from the hotel. Such an amazing service! In the end, we brought my knee scooter too, knowing the power scooter would be quite large, and many places in Scotland are small and involve at least a step or two to enter buildings. Surely I could get around on a knee scooter much easier?
So there I was, armed with my folding crutches, knee scooter, and the promise of a power scooter meeting me in Edinburgh. I also tried to find a power scooter in Oban but had no luck. This solidified my decision to bring the knee scooter, and I’m SO glad I did. Off we went! You can’t keep this girl down!
Getting to Europe: Planes
I was immediately discouraged at the Springfield Airport. I hadn’t considered they would make me remove my boot to go through security – ouch. However, they were very kind and pulled me aside to sit down and go through a personal screening with a female agent. That took maybe 20 minutes and with our TSA Precheck, we didn’t have to remove anything from our bags. Jason gathered my bags (the first of many, many times) while I got my royal pat down and then we were off to wait on our (delayed) flight to Chicago.
I requested assistance getting on and off the plane through our airline’s app but never saw anyone to help. Since I had my scooter, I didn’t push the issue because it’s such a small airport. Instead, I assumed I could easily roll to the gate and down the ramp to the door, and then awkwardly crutch my way onto the plane while they stowed my scooter below. I just needed a little extra time to do it. In theory, this shouldn’t be a problem if they let us board first, and let us get settled.
They did let us board first, but we were quickly followed by everyone else, because of the flight delay and hurry to get going. Plus they made me leave my scooter at the top of the ramp, so I had to use my crutches down the incline. As I hadn’t practiced with the crutches yet, this was terrifying and less-than-graceful. To get to my seat, I tossed my crutches ahead of me and used the ramp rails and seat arms to swing across the bridge and down the narrow aisles. I collapsed into my seat while the flight attendant watched. Nice. I was unimpressed and immediately nervous about the rest of the trip.
No one met us in Chicago with the wheelchair either – what the heck? Luckily my scooter appeared outside the plane’s door, so I folded my crutches, hung them on the handlebars, and took off up the ramp…and across the entirety of O’Hare, all on my scooter. This was a long, painful journey, but we made it to our gate as our flight to London started boarding. It took a little convincing, but since it was a larger plane, the flight attendants let me keep my scooter so I could get to the bathroom on our 8-hour flight. They stored it in a closet near the galley for me, so I only had to push my call button or send Jason to grab it when I needed to get up.
In London, I was met by a buggy! So apparently my online assistance request did work, just not in the States for some reason. The porter loaded my crutches, bags, AND scooter and whisked me to Border Control; I handed over my passport and sailed right through. Meanwhile, Jason walked the entire length of Heathrow because he’d been sitting for 8 hours and wanted to walk (they offered him a ride too). Unfortunately, my chariot ride ended at baggage claim, so once reassembled, we continued to the train into London.
Getting Around Europe: Trains
I hadn’t thought much about getting on and off the trains. It turns out, I should have requested assistance for that as well – mind the gap and all! We got lucky with the Underground, as all the stations we used had a lift or a ramp down to the trains. From there it was easy to roll onto the train. Once we made it to King’s Cross and had to get on the overland train there was much tsk-tsking from the station staff as I tossed my scooter up the step into the train, grabbed the handrails, and hopped one-legged up to the train. Was it safe? No. Did they like it? Also no, as they take Health & Safety very seriously in the UK. But I made it, so bonus points, right?
When we arrived at York station, I tossed my scooter off the train and hopped back down the same way. More tsk-tsking (also, some gentle applause and “Well done, you!” from others waiting to board that train). Once at our hotel, which was mercifully across the street, I requested assistance for the rest of our journey on the LNER train app. It worked! They had the ramp ready for me the next day and even moved our reserved seats into the disabled area so I had a place to store my scooter and put my leg up. It was glorious – and easy. As we arrived at Waverley Station in Edinburgh, they put the ramp down and I rolled off the train – easy peasy.
We arrived in Edinburgh a day ahead of our group so we could make the last few arrangements. Even though it was nearby, because of all the roadwork and sidewalk closures, we took a taxi to our hotel. The man at the taxi stand was so delightful; having never seen a knee scooter (nor had much of the UK as it turned out), he asked all manner of questions.
Getting Around Europe: Automobiles?
Lo and behold! My power scooter awaited us at the hotel! Amazing! I could have had it delivered to the station, but you had to arrange a specific time, pay an extra fee, and you never know if the trains will be on time (they usually are). Instead, they delivered it to the hotel, which seemed a better option. We didn’t immediately take it out since we had errands to run in tiny shops.
The next day, I used the power scooter to fetch folks from the train station and take them to breakfast while Jason met folks at the airport. I also took it on several “walks” throughout our stay and anywhere I knew we would have the space to accommodate it. Overall, it was bulky and a bit of a burden, so I learned to use my knee scooter on the cobbles for most of our expeditions. The key is to lean back, not forward on the knee scooter, so you don’t fly over the handlebars. I’m still glad I had the power scooter for some of our longer outings and recommend our rental company (listed below).
While in Edinburgh, we ventured to the countryside one day for professional photos, where I quickly learned my scooter does not do rocks or grass. I had to use it like a walker to get down the path to our shooting location where I spent two hours teetering on one leg or crutches in the tall grass on the side of a mountain. It must have been a sight; we have some funny photos of me trying to get around. But! I did it and the rest of the pictures are fabulous. We’re thankful our photographer was such a good sport.
By the time we boarded the train for Oban, I was a pro. I didn’t bother booking assistance with ScotRail because I had figured out how to get on and off myself. Our hotel in Oban was again right across from the train station (whoever planned this was brilliant – pats on the back!), so we didn’t have far to go with our group and bags. By now Jason’s arms were threatening to come off from trying to manhandle our bags all over Scotland. I felt bad about it, so I booked him an appointment with my massage wizard back home. He had to wait a few more days, but she fixed him up nicely.
Jason had work to do while in Oban and our friends were out of town, so I spent time exploring on my own. I took my scooter down the walkway of the bay to take photos and enjoy the view. Then I went shopping for most of the day and visited with the locals. That was fun and they were very kind. Fortunately, many of the shops in Oban are at ground level or just one tiny step up, so I had no problem getting around on my own. I stumbled upon the Jetty Gallery, full of works by local artists, and found a gorgeous etching that I decided should come home with me. Thankfully, Jason agreed and we returned to get it about 5 minutes before they closed on our last day in Oban. Whew!
We also rented a car while in Oban. This allowed us to scout for upcoming trips and visit friends in the country. We originally planned to take the car to the Isle of Mull for some hiking, but because of my broken leg, we decided to hold off for now.
After Oban, we took the train back to Edinburgh and spent our final night at a countryside estate hotel (which was amazing!). The staff met me as I stepped out of the taxi, putting a ramp down to get inside the hotel. While they did have a lift, it didn’t access all the rooms, so I used my crutches quite a bit to get up and down stairs. Also, our hotel had a bathtub! It was glorious to sit on the side of the tub to shower with the handheld instead of standing precariously on one foot in the shower. Incidentally, showering was the biggest frustration the entire time in the UK: the bathrooms are SO small I could barely get in with my scooter or crutches, and there was always a step up into the shower. If I had known I would need an accessible bathroom when I was booking rooms, it would have been much easier, as they are available in some hotels.
More Trains
We decided to take the train back to London, thinking it would be easier than flying. Unfortunately, the train journey turned into quite the event, as there was a fire on the tracks just outside London, so they made us get off the train in York. Another couple from our group was on the train ahead of us and they were given the options to wait it out, walk back to York Station, or get an Uber to London. They chose the latter.
Since we were at York Station, we were given two route options: take the train to Sheffield or Manchester. We opted for Manchester hoping it would be less crowded. We had to wait for the second train, as the first was packed. Once in Manchester, we ran (scooted furiously!) to catch the next train to Euston Station in London. Naturally, this was all during rush hour on a Wednesday afternoon. Madness! Finally, we made it to London, though 7 hours later than planned, and after the show we planned to see at the Vaudeville Theatre. Feeling rather bummed, we headed for Euston Underground Station to call it a day and head for the airport hotel. Except, it turns out Euston has no lifts, so we had to take a taxi to our hotel instead – that was a frightening expense! In hindsight, we could have taken a taxi to Paddington Station and caught the train to the airport, but you live and learn and sometimes don’t make the best decisions when you’re tired. It almost makes one wonder if the flight would have been easier.
The Way Home
The flight out of London the next morning was as easy as the one to London. They let me keep my scooter in a closet onboard again. As soon as we landed in Houston I was immediately reminded that the US is not very kind to anyone with a mobility issue. There was no wheelchair, again, after I requested it and double-checked that I had, so I scooted across the airport to Customs and Border Control. After that, you have to go through security again. In London, security was much the same as it was in Springfield: they pulled me aside, removed my boot, I got a pat down, and they swabbed my scooter while asking me to tell my best version of how I broke my leg. Very easy and cordial. In Houston, they literally screamed at me when I asked where to go with my scooter because it obviously would set off a metal detector. I stood, stunned, at the side of the line waiting for some direction since Jason had already gone through and was frantically trying to repack our bags. About 10 minutes later someone pulled me aside, took my boot and scooter to be swabbed, and told me to walk through the metal detector. Excuse me? I have a broken leg, I will not be walking anywhere! So there I stood, on one leg, for at least another 10 minutes while they swabbed my scooter, eventually brought it back to me, and finally pulled me to the side for a pat down. I was flabbergasted, frustrated, and fighting tears; I’ve never been treated so poorly.
The flight from Houston to Springfield was just as stellar as the one leaving Springfield two weeks earlier. Sigh. We had to board our plane outside, so I had to leave my scooter behind, again, and crutch my way up the ramp and onto the tiny plane, tossing my crutches ahead of me as I swung down the aisle on the armrests. But, as a bonus, we saw the northern lights above Springfield as we landed that night. I was exhausted, happy to be home, and even happier to sleep in my bed. It was a wonderful trip and I learned so much, but holy moly was I tired from all that extra work!
Lessons Learned
Overall, the UK is relatively accommodating to folks with mobility issues. It may take a little planning on your end, but it’s entirely possible to navigate the disabled travel options and folks are super helpful. As a plus, we’re confident we can accommodate someone with mobility challenges on our trips! There’s nothing like a crash course or on-the-ground training to boost your confidence, right? Right. Sometimes it can be a hidden bonus to be an anxiety-ridden overthinker searching for all the available options on a tight deadline. Skills!
I hope my story gives you the confidence to travel even if you have trouble getting around. There are so many assistance options and SO much world to see! Obviously, do what your doctor says and always opt for travel insurance in case you have further issues while on your journey.
*fist bump* You’ve got this. See you out there!
Resources
- Scooter Rental in Edinburgh
- TFL Journey Planner for London Public Transit
- LNER Passenger Assist Request for the London North East Railway
- ScotRail Accessible Travel Request for the train in Scotland
- Euan’s Guide for excellent reviews on accessibility in venues across the UK
- List of public toilets in Edinburgh with accessibility toilets.
Notes
- Lifts (elevators). Many old buildings in the UK cannot be retrofitted with lifts. Be sure to research ahead of time so you know what is available and reach out to ask questions as needed. Sometimes stairs are the only option.
- Accessible Toilets. Places serving food must have accessible toilets or point you somewhere that does. If you don’t see them, ask. Public toilets can also be found in bus stations, train stations, shopping centers, and department stores. You can apply for and purchase a radar key for accessible toilets if you have mobility or bowel/bladder conditions.
- Email Hotels. Stay in contact with your hotel about any help you may need. Many have disabled rooms, access to lifts, and additional assistance if you need it. Private rentals and Air B&Bs do not have this requirement, so contact your host to ask questions before booking.
Helpful Travel Accessories
- Folding Crutches
- Crutch Pads
- iWalk
- Knee Scooter
- Sleeping Boot
- Water Resistant Walking Boot Covers
- Waterproof Shower Boot
- Reusable Waterproof Bags for Ice
