I’m writing from an LNER train from Edinburgh Waverley to London King’s Cross station after a week-long whirlwind trip through Scotland with Jason’s Huntley side of the family. We took a bit of a hiatus from doing group trips while Jason settles in his new job at MSU, but since this one has been in the works for a few years, we decided to run with it. And run we did!
Jason and I landed in London on Thursday last week. We can typically find cheaper tickets (in this case business class tickets) into London and then we catch a train up to Scotland. However, we were on a bit of a mission in London this time. Last fall, I had purchased tickets for us to go see the show Six in the West End, but due to a train debacle and me being one-legged, it didn’t work out. After rescheduling multiple times, we decided this was the time it was going to work! We finally got to see the show – and loved it! The music was great and it had loads of witty one liners for those who really know their Henry VIII history. *wink*
This time in London, we spent loads of time walking and just seeing where our feet would take us. At the last minute, we decided to visit Westminster Abbey in Westminster (fun to search for famous tombs and effigies), Saint Paul’s Cathedral on Ludgate Hill (what an absolutely stunning building!), and walked across the Millennium Bridge to Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre on the South Bank on Thursday. On Friday, we took on the Victoria and Albert Museum and Harrods before our show. We stayed at the Lost Property Saint Paul’s Curio by Hilton (on points!) and had a lovely time being within walking distance of so many things to do. We even walked to our show on Friday night. We were also able to meet up with Jason’s cousin on the DeBode side for dinner at The Ned one night before she moved back to the US. Lots of things checked off our list this time!
By Saturday morning, we were ready to get out of the city. It’s a good thing we had a 6 am train out of Euston Station to do just that – time to head to Scotland! On our way North, we had to take the Avanti West service up the west coast of England due to maintenance on the east coast lines. This meant the journey took 6.5 hours rather than our usual 4.5 hours, but it was a good opportunity to catch up on some sleep.
Once we reached Waverley Station in Edinburgh, we hit the ground running. We checked in at the Hilton Carlton (which is finishing up a stunning renovation) and met up with the rest of the group that was there that day. Once we had a plan, they headed off to a comedy whisky tasting and we headed off to find some local friends (it’s so cool to have ‘local’ friends around the world). We spent the evening with our friends and their kids at the Christmas Market – what a busy place! It reminded me of the Iowa State Fair with the mounds of people, rides, foods, and things for purchase. We had a great time checking out all the stalls and watching the kids do some of the rides. Afterwards, we headed to The Dome on George Street for drinks and a gander at the Christmas decorations – they were phenomenal.
Later we found ourselves at the Inn on the Mile for dinner (always a top choice for us) and then we met up with the rest of our group at Whistle Binkies next door for live music and a pint. That was a great time! It’s always great to rub elbows with locals and learn about each other.
On Sunday we all did our own things all day. The Palace of Holyrood, shopping, ghost tours, etc. Jason scored TWO great coats while we were shopping – he’ll be very stylish this winter. I may have found one for myself as well. We all met up for dinner at Howies (always a favorite) and then went to the rooftop lounge at the W Hotel for drinks before bed. What a great view of the Christmas Market and all of Edinburgh!
Monday morning, we had a train to catch to Stirling, so we walked the group down to the train station with our luggage and headed there for one quick night. After checking into King Street Aparthotel (which was amazing), we had the BEST tour of a castle we’ve ever encountered. Our tour guide, Joanie, was phenomenal and knew darn near everything about Stirling Castle. It’s always such a bonus when someone can make some dry history exciting – that’s the entire reason I studied history in college, I had great teachers. We all agreed that, if only we’d had history teachers more like Joanie, we’d probably like history more now. After we poked our heads into all the grand spaces preserved and original, and inquired about the price to rent the great hall for a wedding (haha), we had a bit of a surprise on our way out of the castle. Cousin Ashley’s boyfriend got down on one knee in front of the castle, and she said yes! How absolutely magical! I guess there was a reason he was asking about the price to rent the great hall (starts at £10,000 by the way)!
After a very exciting lunch at No. 2 Baker Street, we split up for a bit before dinner. Some went for naps, but J & I went with the excited couple to Church of the Holy Rude only to find it closed for the season. Bummer. So instead, we wandered the surrounding graveyard and got some fun photos of it and the castle beyond. I love a good cemetery wander – I’m so weird. We decided to tour the Old Town Jail and learned quite a lot about the penal system in Scotland and its advances throughout the years. Let’s just say I wouldn’t have wanted to be in trouble before the prison reform came through!
A quick dram with most of the group at Nicky-Tams followed by dinner at Maharaja Indian Restaurant rounded out our evening – we were so tired. But the rest of the group went back to Nicky-Tams for the live folk music and had a great time. We crashed in our King Street Aparthotel (which was fantastic) to prepare for the next day. We were catching another train in the morning for Inverness.
If you’ve never taken the train through Scotland from Glasgow or Edinburgh to Inverness, I highly suggest you do. The views are stunning as you go through the Cairngorms National Park. So many snowcapped munros (mountains), streams, sheep, and quaint villages keep you staring out the window the entire time. I often find myself saying I’m just getting off at the next station and staying. Scotland is just so dreamy.
We arrived in Inverness early in the afternoon and got moved into our apartments at Mansley Highland Apartments – right on the River Ness. We had fantastic views of Inverness up and down the river. After we threw a few things into the washing machine quickly, we headed to a late lunch with the group at Johnny Foxes. We had just a couple of hours to spare before dinner, so we wandered through some shops, and I got lost in Leakey’s Bookshop for a few hours while Jason went to get some cough drops and ibuprofen. Uh oh.
Dinner was at Hou Hou Mei across the river and it was excellent, even if Jason didn’t touch his dinner [Jason says: not because it wasn’t good…keep reading for the details]. I knew then we were in trouble. As we were trying to leave, he started shaking uncontrollably with cold and I had to drag him back to the apartment and put him to bed [Jason says: except remember we stopped halfway AT THE RIVER to take a family picture. Never miss a good photo opp!], where he remained for the next 2 days. Usually when he’s sick, he can rally, but this knocked him out flat, as it did for me 3 weeks prior. Nasty thing. The group went in search of live music and found some fantastic musicians. I was glad they sent me some videos. How fun!
While Jason was catching some serious zzs on Wednesday, I went to catch a train to Huntly with the rest of the group for a daytrip. This was the day the entire trip was built for! Jason’s Huntley family (his mom’s family) hails from the area of Scotland in Aberdeenshire called Huntly. There is a very cute village also called Huntly where there is a castle ruin that is always great fun to visit.
Do we know if they have any connection to those who once resided in the castle? Mmmm…not 100% sure [Jason says: pfft, lies! It’s ours.]. Lots of people have spent more time researching the connection than I have (I have piles of Huntley research books from them), but we at least know they’re from the area and I know when they came to the United States, they were coopers (barrel makers) in Lyme, Connecticut. The Huntley last name most likely came from the area where they lived since it wasn’t common to have a last name in those times. I have more research to do. Surely all this DNA work can help me out in a big way one of these days.
We had lunch in Huntly at The Bank Cafe and it was great! There aren’t a ton of options in that small town, but that one is definitely at the top. After lunch, we walked to Huntly Castle for a self-guided tour and poked around the castle grounds for over an hour. Once we were thoroughly chilled, we headed back into the village to warm up with a pint at the Crown Bar. But first, I stopped at Orb’s Book Shop to find a book to help me with that further Huntley research – The History of Strathbogie, The Story of the Lords of Strathbogie, Their Castle and the Town of Huntly Which Grew Up in its Shadow by Patrick W. Scott (who may be an ancestor of mine – wild!). I’ve been waiting to grab the new edition for 2 years. Nerd.
Six of us headed back to Inverness and the other two stayed behind to meet a cousin from Aberdeen for dinner. Jason was no better when I got back (worse, actually), so I headed to dinner with the group to River House Restaurant – the best food we had on the entire trip! It was a tiny restaurant, but they had the freshest seafood, the best staff, and we got a table right next to the kitchen so it was fun to watch them prepare everything…including the half pound of butter that went into each steak and shrimp dish! Wowsa.
The next morning we had to move to a hotel due to a scheduling snafoo. I packed everything up and hauled it and Jason a couple of blocks down the road to the River Ness Radisson Hotel. I tucked him in bed and set off to locate a cake for an engagement party and some buns to feed Jason with medication. Tour and wife duties.
Once I had those things found and dropped off back at the hotel I decided I was going on a long walk. Everyone else was off on adventures to Ullapool and Culloden Battlefield and had a fabulous time. So jealous. So instead, I set off down the river towards the Ness Islands for a bit of nature in the city. It was very windy, but so nice to walk amongst the trees for awhile. I was back just in time for everyone else to start reappearing and get ready for dinner.
By now it was Thursday and Thanksgiving Day! We had Thanksgiving dinner in an old church called The Mustard Seed. It was such a fun building, complete with a wood burning fire, a vaulted ceiling-height bar and Christmas trees. Very festive. We surprised the newly engaged couple with a Victorian Sponge cake with a firecracker candle on top – so fun! I pulled the sick husband card after dinner and went to check on him while the rest of the group went looking for live music again for their last night in Inverness.
Friday morning we packed up and headed back to the train station for our journey back South to Edinburgh. Our trip back was a little more eventful than it otherwise would have been as we’d all coordinated before to bring Adidas track suits. Each couple chose a different color, and of course we were the only ones on the train in track suits [Jason says: they were all jealous!]. The ScotRail staff member found it as entertaining as we did, and seemed to make repeated stops to our car. Our photo opp at the station in Stirling brought equal confusion and laughter from the other travelers. We’ll call this a win, and one heck of a good fashion statement! We stayed at the Norton House Hotel & Spa just a few minutes from the airport. This gave everyone a chance to relax before their trips home or on to Ireland. I booked myself a massage and facial, which I never do on trips. It was nice to have a moment to try to clear my mind. Some others had massages, spent time in the pool, or went back into Edinburgh city center to find some more adventures.
We met in the hotel Brasserie for our final dinner (Jason included this time!), group photos, and lots of hugs and goodbyes. In the morning we parted ways for Glasgow, Dublin, and London. It turns out there is a whopper of a snowstorm blowing across the northern United States, so it could be a interested trip home for most of us. I’m just hoping we make it state-side. I can figure it out easier from there.
So here we are, on a train to back to London to catch our plane home tomorrow morning. The plan for tonight is to repack more intelligently so we can check a bag or two and hopefully call it an early night. Jason has been a trooper with moving around the past couple of days, but he still feels pretty poorly and has a wicked cough. I’m hoping that the snowstorm doesn’t hold us up too much and we can sleep in our bed Sunday night (spoiler: we didn’t make it until late Monday night).
There you have it, a wee glance inside what a group trip to Scotland with us looks like (ok, maybe a long one). We like to have a good mix of group activities we schedule to do together, and also leave you lots of time to explore on your own to make sure you see all the things you want to on your trip. I also hope many of the activities, hotels, and restaurants I mentioned could be options to add to your own trip – either with us or on your own.
We don’t currently have any further group trips scheduled for sign-up, but we are taking inquiries about private trips (gather your people), and I will be working on setting up preplanned itineraries this winter that you can book yourself. We want to help you find the courage and support to get out there!
