We’ve been to Scotland so many times now it feels like a second home. And so, we’ve started to get a feel for what you must do in Scotland and what isn’t so necessary on your short trip. Now, we’re the type that packs a lot of adventure into our trips and travels ALL over the country to get the best feel for the culture. If that’s not your style, our list might be a little far-flung for you, or, you just might have to take a couple of trips. No harm in that!
As Jason and I start looking at another exciting year of travel with his University students, I’ve been reminded of a few of our favorite things to do in the countries we will be visiting this year. I often spend my “spare” time at home helping him put together exciting programs for his students: he’s in charge of their education, and I’m in charge of their cultural experience. I’m often scrolling websites in the wee hours looking for unique hotels for him to book and figuring out all the travel arrangements between points a and b…planes, layovers, trains, buses, taxis, private transfers, etc. Honestly, I love it, I just wish it paid. Haha. Stop looking at me like that, I’m not starting ANOTHER business! Right now.
So, since we’re headed back to Scotland and London in May, I’ve been deep in our archives for Scotland. Here is our “Must Do in Scotland” list to experience the land of the unicorn, Nessie, and haggis (which for the record is delish!).
1. Go Whisky Tasting at Talisker Distillery
If you’re heading to the Isle of Skye, make sure Talisker Distillery is on your list. The scenic drive among the mountains and hills winds you down to dramatic cliffs falling into Loch Harport with gorgeous scenery all around you. The distillery itself has been around for the better part of 200 years and the tour is helpful, informative, and fun. Oh, and the whisky is pretty great, too! Jason’s favorite is Dark Storm. Their tagline is “made by the sea” and I truly believe you can taste the salt of the sea in their peaty whisky. This might have been the first place we were told to put a drop of water in our whisky to open up the flavor – it’s crazy how different it makes it taste! We’ve been back multiple times, obviously, this is a must-do.
2. Stay at Ardanaiseig Hotel
There are hotels and there are hotels; Ardanaiseig Hotel is the latter. Described by one of Jason’s students as ‘my rich best friend’s house,’ the 19th century grey stone manner house is perched on a hill that gently rolls into Loch Awe. You’re likely to see few people while at Ardanaiseig, as the emphasis here is on rest and relaxation. Fancy a walk? Plenty of forest trails await; just make sure you pack your waterproof boots or grab a pair of theirs by the door before you head out. Hungry? The meals you’ll eat while overlooking the loch are second to none. And before you head back upstairs to turn in for the night, make sure you stop by the cozy wood-paneled study for a nightcap and a gaze across the loch. It just does something for the soul.
3. Wander the Cliff Edges & Beaches of Aird Uig on the Isle of Lewis
While we’re on the hotels subject, another place you must visit is the Isle of Lewis, particularly the area of Aird Uig and the cute little pods of SEAcroft. We recently spent 3 days in a little pod overlooking a magnificent cliff diving into the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a remote area with stunning scenery. I can’t even begin to tell you how amazing it is, there are not words. Our two favorite things to do here were explore the cliff top at the Gallan Head Royal Air Force Observation Point and drive/hike along the B8011 – stunning mountains, cliffs, coastline, and beaches that look like they belong somewhere in the Caribbean.
The RAF Observation Point is a decommissioned air force base that was used to track submarines through the Cold War at Scotland’s most Northwesterly point. It’s abandoned, wild, and a bit mysterious. You can climb down the cliffs as far as you dare to get a good look at the rocks, water, and wildlife below. So much fun. There are plans for the construction of a path to its highest point with full disability access.
The drive along the B8011 is indescribable. It weaves along the coastline through mountains to the East and cliff edges and beaches to the West. The road eventually ends (which is a great hiking area) and you must turn around to come back, taking it all in again. Highly recommend!
4. Visit Huntly Castle
Jason’s claim to fame is there is a castle named after his mom’s family in Scotland – Huntly Castle (for the record, there is one in Ireland named after mine, Lacy Castle – ha). Do we know if his family is actually from this area? …no. His family has been extensively researched by generations of Huntleys, and we own 3 large volumes of Huntley family history but do any of them mention this castle or its village, nope. Wishful thinking. But we’ll allow it because it’s fun. Huntly Castle is our favorite not only because of its name and potential family connection. We love that it’s off the beaten path, has a labyrinth of ruins across the estate, and some impressive stonework. Plus, in the cellars, there’s a distinctly spooky feeling that I don’t get in many other castles that claim to be haunted. Relatives saying hello? We’ll leave that up to you. Huntly Castle is the former seat of Clan Gordon, located in a beautiful park outside the village of Huntly in Aberdeenshire, right next to a huge golf course. It’s a beautiful area and definitely worth the visit for any castle enthusiast or golfer. Plus, Glenfiddich Distillery is just 20 minutes down the road. Wink.
5. Visit Rosslyn Chapel
If you’ve seen the Davinci Code, you’re familiar with Rosslyn Chapel. I fully admit that is how this chapel was even on my list of things to search out on our first trip to Scotland (that we thought we be our only trip – ha!). Located outside the village of Roslin just south of Edinburgh in Midlothian, the chapel is part of the Rosslyn Castle estate. It was founded in the 1446 century by Sir William St Clair and has had a history of ruin and repair due to historic events and the high humidity of the building. The stonework in this chapel is highly ornate and underwent a complete restoration that was finished in 2013. We visited in 2017 and can say, it is stunning. We spent hours there admiring the ornate stonework. The best part, services are held here every Sunday with the Scottish Episcopal Church, so you can experience the building in its full purpose. Photos do not do this work of art justice. It must be seen to be fully appreciated.
6. Hike Fairy Glen
Have you ever wanted to feel like a giant? Maybe you’re a Godzilla fan and want to know the feeling of towering over the cityscape. If so, and you find yourself at the tippy top of the Isle of Skye, make sure to check out the Fairy Glen near Uig for a quick stroll. The unique little hills form a miniature landscape, making you feel larger than life. You can walk quickly to the hills from the car park or spend hours hiking up, down, and around the fun green hills, fairy rings, and quietly falling waterfalls. It’s an easy way to spend a few hours without breaking a sweat (or the bank; it’s free). Be advised, it is in a farmer’s sheep pasture, so watch where you’re stepping, and if you look suspicious, the friendly sheepdog will come to check you out. He didn’t like our drone. Haha.
7. Eat the Seafood
Scottish food gets a bad rap, but as much as we’ve traveled around the country, we have yet to experience a bad meal, which means we couldn’t pick just one favorite! As Scotland is nearly surrounded by water, the seafood is among the best we’ve ever had. All of it is freshly caught and usually came in on one of the fishing boats earlier that day. The salmon is second to none, whether it’s fresh or smoked (Tasha has smoked salmon for breakfast nearly every morning), but there are plenty of other fish in the sea to try, too. The 4-legged creatures are also tasty, including venison, lamb, and highland beef. And of course, you can’t travel around the UK and miss out on the black pudding or haggis at breakfast; it’s a must! Let’s be real, we just really like food and Scotland does not disappoint!
8. Drive Lewis & Harris
We love a good drive through the mountains and typically we’d recommend one on the mainland, but after our trip to the Outer Hebrides, we believe we’ve found something special. The Isles of Lewis and Harris have some of the most dramatic and quickly changing scenery we’ve ever experienced. The best part is you can circumnavigate the entire island in a matter of hours. If you come in on the ferry at Tarbert, you’ll immediately be met with imposing mountains and dramatic sea cliffs. When we made this journey, we wound our way through the mountains up to Stornoway, the biggest settlement on the island. After filling up with petrol (stations are spotty, so be prepared) we headed across the bleak moorland to Barvas at the west end of the island then headed North to the Port of Ness. Backtracking from Ness, you can drive along the coast to Breanais taking in the mountains and sea cliffs until the road ends and you have to backtrack again to Callanish. Once there, cut across the island again and be greeted by the massive stone mountains of Harris. Finding yourself at Tarbert again you have to decide, are you staying, headed back to Skye on the next ferry, or continuing your journey to the next ferry port at Leverburgh at the Southern tip of the island and heading to North Uist? As an incentive to continue, along the road to the next ferry port at Leverburgh, you’ll find Luskentyre Beach, rumored to be the most beautiful beach in Scotland. The choice is yours! We highly recommend hopping to the next island for another shocking change in landscape.
9. Spend Time in Edinburgh
There are lots of amazing cities in Europe, but we’re partial to Edinburgh. As you walk down the cobblestone streets, you’ll marvel at medieval buildings standing next to modern-day construction as far as the eye can see. Even on the gloomiest, rainy day, this place just seems special. Make sure to visit the Royal Mile, located between the formidable Edinburgh Castle built upon a dormant volcano and the tranquil Holyrood Palace at its foot in Old Town. The Mile is lined with your typical tourist shops, pubs, and impressive churches but is also near many historic sites with great tours, museums, art galleries, and the Waverley Train Station. Using the Mile as the spine, you will find many points of interest along its side streets and more modern shopping and accommodations across the train tracks and Princes Street Gardens in the New Town area. We make a point to stop here on every trip and have never been disappointed. It’s a great place to gather souvenirs and unique experiences.
10. Travel to Oban
Located in the Northwestern part of Scotland, Oban is an easy place to miss, but a great place to visit. The town has the feeling of a turn-of-the-century fishing village, and if you arrive early enough you’ll see the boats coming back into the harbor and selling their catch to the restaurant chefs. This is also a busy ferry port with access to various Hebridean Islands. Stroll down the seaside main street that runs the length of the town and wander into the bookstores, candy shops, pubs, and shops. Oh, and make sure you stop at the Oban Distillery for a tour and a dram before heading back on your way. They give the best whisky tour we’ve found in Scotland so far! This is also a great place to catch a train, which means if you don’t want to drive in Scotland, it’s an easy ride from Edinburgh Waverley with a quick change at Glasgow Central, and the views along the way are stunning! Just 3 miles outside of Oban is Dunstaffnage Castle and Chapel, well worth the step outside of Oban to see in its peaceful setting.
11. Trek to the Isle of Skye
Believe the hype about the Isle of Skye, it’s all true. It is a complete zoo in the summer since there’s only one road in and out and tour buses are rampant, but if you go in the shoulder season, it’s far more enjoyable. The mountains are towering, the roads winding, the views stunning, and the hiking can be challenging. There are so many things we love to do on this island that we had to pick it as an overall must-do. Our favorite distillery and hikes are located on Skye, we’ve had very enjoyable stays at small hotels, the seafood is so fresh, and it’s a great jumping point to catch a ferry for the Outer Hebrides. Dunvegan Castle and Gardens can keep you busy for hours and the picturesque village of Portree is great for lunch and a place to stretch your legs. You may find yourself caught in a snowstorm in the Quiraing only to find stunning blue skies and ocean views on the other side. Make sure to hike to a cliff edge and wander up to greet the Old Man of Stor. It’s truly an island of wonders.
12. Wander Inveraray Castle Gardens
Inveraray Castle & Gardens is a bit of a two-for-one on our favorites list. You may recognize this castle from the Christmas 2012 episode of Downton Abbey. The castle is a great example of a modern-day Scottish Highland Clan seat. The head of the Campbell Clan, the Duke of Argyll, lives here with his family but has opened parts of the castle and its grounds to the public to generate income for the extravagant upkeep of a castle in the 21st Century. It’s a great place to spend quite a few hours. Along with a tour of the castle comes access to the gardens. The gardens are pristine and cover acres of not only perfectly manicured flowers and shrubs but extensive forested parkland to explore. You can even take a hike up to the watchtower to overlook the entire estate and Loch Fyne. If you run out of things to do at the Castle, take a walk into Inveraray and visit the shops and the jail. Yes, the jail. It’s rumored to be one of the most haunted places in Scotland and you’ll easily be able to see why.
13. Rent a Car or Jump on the Train
Scotland is a fairly big and relatively rural place, so it can take some time to get from one part of the country to another, especially since there are so many mountains involved. So, if moving between the larger cities and towns of Edinburgh, Glasgow, Oban, Aberdeen, or Inverness you could opt for a scenic and easy train ride to explore the cities by foot. Many of these routes have stops along the way in smaller villages where you could jump off and get a feel for the countryside. However, if you’re going outside the cities or heading for more remote areas in the Highlands, then it’s time to find a car and set off on your own. There are plenty of car rental agencies at the airports and throughout the cities. Yes, Scots drive on the left side of the road from the right side of the car in Scotland, so this takes some getting used to but we’re confident you can do it. We recommend renting from an airport location your first time since there is usually a little more room to practice before you are pushed out into traffic. There are just so many things to see in Scotland and a car gives you the best access. We don’t want you to miss a thing!
14. Find the Ancient Standing Stones of Machrie Moor
Tasha loves a good bit of history and ancient lore so you can bet we spend a fair amount of time hunting down stone circles, cairns, and other ancient structures (as well as ruined castles). There is often very little backstory to go with these locations as it’s been lost to time, but plenty of speculation. We recently visited Callanish Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis but were left a bit disappointed. Don’t get me wrong, the site is huge and the view towards the ocean from Callanish 1 was spectacular, but it was busy, butted up against housing, and we had a hard time feeling the magic. That’s probably because we were comparing it to Machrie Moor Standing Stones on the Isle of Arran. Much like Callanish, this is an entire complex of stone circles and standing stones across a wide expanse of moorland, but there’s nothing but wilderness to be seen. The remote location involves a small uphill hike out from a car park along the road with no facilities but it’s worth it. You’ll feel like you’re the only thing there, surrounded by towering mountains and hills shrouded in ancient mystery and fresh sea breezes. The lack of extensive information available about the stones lets your mind wander and create a story, until your husband breaks your trance and tells you it’s time to go. Ferry to catch and all.
15. Find the Highland Coos
Perhaps fewer animals are as iconic sights to see in Scotland as the famed Highland Coo. With their shaggy red-brown hair (or black, or white) hiding their eyes, tongues always sticking out for a taste of the salty air, and their ginormous size, they can be seen in most parts of Scotland. And, depending on where you go, if you’re out and about on your adventure, don’t be surprised to have one standing in the middle of the road, blocking your path. In a hurry? Too bad; the coo isn’t. Perfect photo op.
We hope this leaves you with lots of ideas for your list on your next trip. Scotland is a true, wild wonder of the world and we strongly believe everyone should have the chance to experience it. Despite our many trips, we actually haven’t even seen ALL of it yet. We still have trips planned for the borderlands, a drive along the North Coast 500, and an island hop to Orkney and Shetland, so our list could easily change! But, like experiencing all good things, it takes time, and we aren’t complaining because Scotland truly is that great. There’s nothing like feeling at home in a country that isn’t your own…yet. Wink.
Happy Travels!
